“ But on the section of the river that runs below the Epupa Falls down to the coast, the crocs are fearless” says our river guide, Alain Coetzee.  “There they constantly attack the rafts and canoes – doing a commercial trip down there would almost be suicide. But I'd still like to do it one day – but with a shotgun on board!”

The Kunene River Safari Expedition is a unique journey along one of the least explored rivers in Southern Africa. Since Felix Unite River Adventures started these river trips in 1994, only about 500 people have experienced the Kunene cruise.

The route, which includes long tranquil stretches of water as well as heart-stopping rapids meanders through about 180 kms of untamed scenery where the only other humans beings you see are the smiling Himba tribes people who run down to greet you from the river bank.

The Kunene Expedition actually begins in Windhoek, the capital city of Namibia, and is structured so that participants also get one of the best wildlife experiences in Africa- a couple of days en route to the river in the Etosha National Park.

After being warmly welcomed at Windhoek International Airport by our guides  we hit the road north to Etosha.  The highway runs as straight as an arrow and on arrival at the Okaukuejo Rest Camp, we watch the golden globe of the sun sink through the evening haze whilst we supp. on barbecued spare ribs.  Gabriel, our support vehicle driver, has already pitched our tents.  Sometime in the night, I awake to two claps of thunder.  The fresh smell of rain is in the air – ever alert, Gabriel is covering the tents with fly sheets.  Big bangs of thunder echo across Etosha and frequent flashes of lightening cast a purple glow across the sky.  In the distance a lion moans and I'm soon lulled back to sleep by the pitter-patter of rain on the tent.

I'm up long before the sun and sleepily wander down to the waterhole for which this camp is famous.  The storm has passed and the air is clear and still.  The blackness of the night slowly, almost imperceptibly, changes to the dark blue of dawn.  There are no animals in sight and I gaze in awe at the surreal sight of an empty floodlit waterhole.  Then, as if from nowhere, a solitary giraffe nervously approaches, spreads its forelegs and stoops down to drink.  In the background a small herd of 12 elephants – 9 adults and 3 little ones - emerges from the shadows to take their early morning bath and drink.

After a quick breakfast, we take an early game drive under a hazy, yellow sky.  At Okondeka waterhole, a wildlife spectacle awaits us.  A pride of 10 lions walks slowly across the road, whilst in the distance herds of giraffe, wildebeest, zebra, springbok and ostrich stir up great plumes of dust as the play.

At Halali rest camp we stop for a much needed swim before an afternoon drive to the edge of the Etosha Pan itself. Covering 5000 square km, which is nearly 25% of the entire park, Etosha Pan is classified as a saline desert and only occasionally holds any water.  The wind drops and there's a deafening silence as I walkover the baking hot surface of the cracked clay/salt earth.  Waves of shimmering mirages flood the horizon and I lose all sense of perspective in the sheer white flats.

The next morning we set off early on the long drive to the Onderuso Gorge, the starting point for the 5 day and 6 night paddle section of the expedition.  Our route takes us east out of Etosha and then northwest into Ovamboland, passing through the towns of Ondangwa, Oshakati and Ruacana.

At the Ruacana Falls, a 120 meter granite drop, we leave the tar behind and head into the dust.  The landscape is astounding with thorny trees growing from the barren beauty of the stony earth.  The fast flowing waters of the Kunene are a welcome sight, and we've timed our arrival perfectly.  The sun is about to set and the rocky landscape is bathed in shades of pastel pink so soft and subtle that they look like they've been airbrushed by hand.  As the silver ball of a full moon rises over Angola – on the northern bank – I strip off and slip into the cool Kunene for the first time.

Our first day on river dawns as we wake up in an untamed part of the world.  The scenery is rugged and remote, untouched by human hand.  “Welcome to the Kunene – the least explored river in southern Africa” says Alain as he begins our river briefing.  “The person at the back of the raft is the captain and responsible for steering whilst in front is the engine room and the power”.

Before we begin paddling in earnest, we have to portage over the smooth granite rocks past Onduruso Falls, a grade 5 – 6 rapid that's too dangerous to tackle, although our safety kayakers make it look easy as they shoot the foaming cascade.  On re-entry to the river, we start our cruise downstream of the falls.  Soon we approach the first major rapid – Corkscrew – and immediately we become unstuck.  We hit a rock, spin around, and true to the rapids name, I pop out of the raft.  Others suffer the same fate.  Two women turn turtle in perfect harmony that would put synchronized swimmers to shame.  By the lunch break, everyone is wet but there's a hot wind blowing and within minutes, soaking sarongs and sandals are dry.

Tamara has prepared a delicious curried chicken and peach and pasta salad and after a short siesta, we hit the water again.  “Guys, I've just seen a crocodile launch itself into the water” says Alain, pointing to the marks where it had slithered off a sandbank.  “He's probably under our rafts right now so keep your hands and feet out of the water for a while”.  We portage past Birthday Chute Rapid – another grade 4 – 5 before a tail wind allows us to put our paddles up and cruise with the wind and current as a lazy afternoon slips by.

It has been a short day on the river, just 12km of relaxed paddling and some exciting sections in the Onderuso Gorge – a great way to get into paddling this interesting river.

One does not normally equate floating down a river with comfort and class, but this is a five-star trip.  Apart from the paddling, you don't have to lift a finger.  At night you are served platefuls of delicious Kunene cuisine, plus tasty treats like popcorn, chocolate, pretzels and dips, expertly prepared by Tamara.  But the unsung hero of the guide team is undoubtedly Gabriel.  Each day, as we paddle peacefully downstream, he drives the support vehicle along a dreadfully rutted road to prepare our next campsite, downstream.  It is tough driving and in places where the road has fallen away, he has to clear a path through the bush as an alternative route. Then every afternoon as we paddle ashore we're greeted by the welcome sight of our tents, already pitched, our inflatable mattresses laid out.  “Hello, did you all have a good day on the river?” he inquires with his ever present smile.

In the morning we wake to the river suffused with the golden colours of dawn.  There is not a breath of wind and we set off in silence on mirror-like water.  The mood is tranquil as we settle into the rhythm of the river and paddle past the Zebra Mountains and guano-stained rocks.  Cattle and goats graze on the river banks and small Himba children run down to the water's edge to wave at the strange people in their red boats.  A Fish Eagle glides gracefully above, while Goliath Heron and Blue-Cheeked Bee Eaters sit and stare at us from the trees.

The day drifts by in an aqua haze of heat and Himba greetings. Out here on the Kunene, the rest of the world ceases to exist. America is poised for an attack on Afganistan and another Big Brother housemate is about to be  evicted, but these issues are unimportant right now.  Time loses all meaning in the river's gentle flow.

Because of its desolate terrain, Namibia is often referred to as “the land God made in anger”.  Up here, around the Kunene, the scenery is indeed unforgiving.  But the barren beauty, interspersed with magnificent Makalani palms and massive riverine acacias, is so breathtaking it seems a pity that so few visitors get to witness this wonderful part of the world. But, in a way, therein lies the satisfaction.

By lunch on the third day, we arrive at Enyandi Camp and Alain explains the intricacies of the “S-Bend” rapid up ahead.”  From here onwards, the adventure part really starts” he smiles.  “This is the most technical rapid and you'll have to tackle it aggressively or you'll flip.”  The adrenaline begins to pump as we paddle into the surge.  “Hard left!” shouts my paddling partner as we hit the rapid head on and bounce down into a dip before emerging wet but intact downstream.

Another day, another golden dawn.  Tall Makalani palms silhouetted against a dappled sky slowly lightening above our tents.  All too soon it's our last day and we set off early for the final 30 km stretch to the fabled Epupa Falls.  We've now entered the Kaokoland and paddle past barren white hills, before coasting through fast-flowing wave trains.  Finally we hear the rumble and see the spray of the falls.  With aching arms and happy hearts, we beach the craft for the final time.

Epupa Falls is truly one of Africa's greatest sights.  Across a stretch of 2 km, the Kunene River crashes and cascades down 22 cataracts into a beautiful gorge dotted with huge Baobab trees growing impossibly out of the rocky orange cliffs.  A perfect rainbow arcs around the rocks as the afternoon sun catches the spray rising above the falls.  No photograph can do justice to the setting and a sunset walk along the gorge is an experience that cannot be adequately described in words -–you simply have to see it for yourself to appreciate why some have termed it….”Africa's Eden.”

But, if the Namibian government gets its way, these magnificent falls may one day (soon) cease to exist.  Although the project has been postponed, plans are still under way for a hydro-electric scheme that would necessitate building a dam to flood an area greater than the city of Johannesburg.  If allowed to go ahead, this scheme would deluge large tracts of land that include about 200 ancestral Himba grave sites and would totally obliterate the Epupa Falls.  It would be a geographical tragedy of immense proportions.

For our final night, we camp mere meters from the thundering water, under a grove of Makalani palms.  After a delicious dinner of lamb with mint sauce and vegetables, I retire to my tent and lie in my sleeping bag, listening to the warm wind rustle through the trees.  I close my eyes and pay back the pleasures of the past several days – the excitement of the rapids, close encounters with crocodiles, easy river cruising, smiling Himba children and the awesome beauty of Epupa.  Then very gently, I'm lulled to sleep by the soothing roar of the falls.